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SPEEDOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 27, 2010 - 11:53 PM
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well definetly keep in touch about the shaved head but I am broke now and one day i plan on doin a v6/5speed swap into it but i think I will put that motor/transaxle on a shelf or in another car and sell.
 
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SPEEDOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 27, 2010 - 11:55 PM
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how much is pretty pricy?
 
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88ESCORTGTOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 28, 2010 - 12:24 AM
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SPEED Change your mechanic, if your ford does not run right don't change your ford change your mechanic. I have seen cars with bad ETS do what you are tlaking about tell your new mechanic to test for codes , if no codes then look at the data for engine coolant temp and see if it makes sence.

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amc49Offline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 28, 2010 - 12:29 AM
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Forget 'upgrades', you just need to get to a acceptably running car first. Upgrading head is in all probability not going to help your problem at all.

Need to at least attempt to run codes, they may well point the way to fix your trouble easily and cheaply.
 
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SPEEDOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 28, 2010 - 12:36 AM
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88ESCORTGT wrote:
SPEED Change your mechanic, if your ford does not run right don't change your ford change your mechanic. I have seen cars with bad ETS do what you are tlaking about tell your new mechanic to test for codes , if no codes then look at the data for engine coolant temp and see if it makes sence.


I don't want to make my self sound stupid or anything but I am the mechanic(a very fresh one) and I'm not goin to get rid of my car I am just trying to learn what I need to do to get it to run right and in a few years when I graduate from UTI and save up I am going to do the upgrades then. Not to worried about upgrading this motor(going to swap it out in a few years anyways), just wanted to see if it was worth it if i was tearing to motor apart.
 
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SPEEDOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 28, 2010 - 12:38 AM
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another bit of information, I have all of those problems that i listed but my check engine light isn't on
 
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88ESCORTGTOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 28, 2010 - 03:56 AM
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scan for codes anyway , and look at your date , if you don't know who to do it ask your UTI teacher , I'M sure he know how if he does not well fire him too Razz
I'm 99% sure you have a sensor or actuator gone bad and after over 20 years playing with tempo/topaz i have never had to do a vavle guide job on anyof them.
other head work yes but not vavle guides.

or get a mechanic friend to help you out. If you lived close enuff to me I would go scan it for free But I'M sure you don't live in CANADA.

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mlburgoonOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 28, 2010 - 04:24 AM
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i think it was going to be 5 or 6 hundred bucks for a complete head, fully assembled. Includes new oversized valves, new seats, new rocker arms (1.73:1), all machining, new springs, and assembly.

If you or anyone wants, I will work up a more accurate price quote. This head would be similar (less radical, though) to the head I run in my race car.

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SPEEDOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 29, 2010 - 12:24 AM
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well I'm still in high school and won't be going to UTI untill July, and my auto tech teacher now doesn't know for sure but I'll ask him if he has a scanner. Also, I stopped in at autozone and they told me because my engine light was not on that it was either fuel or exaust. and my original muffler was clogged one and was blown off the back of the car on the interstate (replaced it finaly) so I really wouldn't be surprised that the catylitic(sp) converter was bad or clogged.


and about the head, I plan on swapping the 3.0L V6 engine in it so I probly wont need the one for the 2.3 I just thought that I would have to tear it down. BUT, if you wouldn't mind makin heads for some other cars like perhaps the 2.2L subaru engine that would be great. my best friend has one
 
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89TempoGLSOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 30, 2010 - 03:32 AM
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will the intake and exhaust ports be ported out too???

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PerformanceWithEconomyOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 30, 2010 - 04:07 AM
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I asked Mike about that before. From what he stated at that time, they would be stock unported castings with all of the upgrades he mentioned. As such, if you wanted to ported heads, your best bet would be to do the work and then send him the casting. Sean
<

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89TempoGLSOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 30, 2010 - 04:09 AM
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alright, i see. Whats the point of bigger valves if the ports are the same size then?

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PerformanceWithEconomyOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 30, 2010 - 06:50 PM
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Ports should be as small as possible without causing major flow restrictions up to the point of highest desired rpm.

You have to remember that ports are basically an open passageway, although they can create turbulence / restriction due to casting irregularities and less than optimal shapes / bends. Basic porting should try to clean up the casting restrictions without making those passages too large. While bigger ports can flow more total air, the larger the port, the less flow velocity. Less flow velocity means lower volumetric efficiency with greater chance for a reduction in lower rpm torque and "fuel puddling".

As such, you have to choose between maximum total flow OR more reasonable flow that may be better suited to a moderate rpm range of operation. Obviously, most "street" designs try to achieve a good balance between the two. Racing designs typically opt for BIG numbers i.e. total flow since most of the driving is done at or very near the top of the rpm range.

With improved flow through the port, the valve is a blockage directly in the middle of what would normally be an open orifice. No matter what you do to the ports, the valve head and stem are in the way of flowing max air. While a higher lift cam can help push the valve head further away from the port, thereby reducing the percentage of blockage, the stem is still in the way taking up space. Some valves have stems that are "necked down" just below the valve head for this reason, but they still impede flow.

One way to make up for this is to use a larger valve. The larger valve head equates to a bigger, less restricted opening at the end of the tunnel. Yes, there is still restriction from the valve stem, but the larger opening somewhat minimizes or at least reduces the problem. So long as flow velocity through the port remains relatively constant, and the valves chosen aren't TOO BIG, a power increase across the band can result. Once again, going overboard in valve size limits the power bandwidth and should be restricted for use in race only motors. The original Boss 302 motor is a prime example of this. HUGE valves and intake ports producing NO usable power at anything below 4500 rpm or so. Then again, this motor was designed for a very specific type of racing, so using it on the street as a daily driver kind of misses the point.

Having said that, going to reasonably sized yet larger valves in a small combustion chamber can create another problem. The larger valve head may be positioned close to the side of the combustion chamber, thereby REDUCING total flow as compared to a stock valve. This is called "valve shrouding" and can be corrected through removal of metal in or near the valve head. Removing a lot of metal from the combustion chamber around the valve head can improve flow figures, but once again, there are potential drawbacks. The primary drawback would be a drop in compression ratio. This not only effects power, but also economy. Compression makes power and efficiency, so reducing it should be avoided. That is, unless one is using a specialized design that increases net cylinder pressure i.e. turbo, supercharger, etc... High compression ratios combined with extremely high cylinder fill ratios can produce too much cylinder pressure and literally blow the head off of the motor.

Believe it or not, the HSC head was specifically designed to create a high level of valve shrouding. The shrouding creates high levels of turbulence in the combustion chamber. While this approach can create better fuel atomization and aid in higher levels of fuel combustion, it is one of the primary reasons why the HSC motors seem to hit a brick wall at higher rpm's. This is especially true when run with the stock HSC cam, which was designed to create high levels of cylinder pressure AT LOW RPM's. In effect, the HSC motor was specifically designed NOT to make high rpm power, but instead, to produce peak torque within a very limited rev range. While minimizing restrictions extraneous of the motor itself can and does improve overall performance, one can never turn an HSC based motor into anything "powerful" without severely digging into the internals. Sean
<

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89TempoGLSOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 31, 2010 - 12:29 AM
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from what i read, i got that our stock engines had a high level of valve shrouding, and by going too big of a valve, it creates valve shrouding. So wouldnt putting a bigger valve in our engines create a higher level of valve shrouding? also, i think i told you about the possibility of supercharging the car. So, i dont doubt you, but would the larger valves and porting the head drastically increase the power output with the supercharger?

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mlburgoonOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 31, 2010 - 01:26 AM
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Because of the work done to the heads around the valve!!! Valve shrounding is NOT an issue with what is done to the heads.

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