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Hermie
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Post subject: Rolling project- Building performance AND economy.
 Posted: Oct 25, 2009 - 05:54 AM
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Active Member
Joined: Jul 11, 2009
Posts: 477
Location: Lebanon, OR
Status: Offline
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Since I got Stickers, I was looking at ways to improve the power. Now that I'm on my own, I'm looking for ways to improve efficiency at the same time. So, I decided to see where I was, economy speaking.
I ran through one tank of gas before an oil change and new O2 sensor (Geez, those things are hard to put in!), and the numbers are saying I get about 22-24 MPG. I was doing mostly highway driving, staying around 50 MPH in a 55 zone (for 18 of 20 miles one way, 36 of 40 per day), with my bike in the trunk which made it stay open to about where the line of the bottom lip of the trunk meets the edge of the rear deck (roughly 7-8 degrees, I think) for 4 days, and without the bike on the 5th day. Variables included one trip driving 40 MPH instead of 50 through fog, and one day of leaving the E-brake on for 20 miles. (It's pretty worn out, though. It doesn't offer much resistance.)
It sure as **** seemed like I was getting less mileage before...
Today, I changed the oil to Valvoline Max Life full synthetic and replaced the Fram high-mileage filter, as well as installed a new Bosch O2 sensor. The codes I was getting from the SES light said (depending on the accuracy of the source) that it was the O2 sensor and the EGR valve not working right. It's still coming on, and I'd like to find out how to clear the memory on that so I can see what changed. I'm still working on trying to figure out where the vaccum lines are so I can check them... The service manual doesn't even mention them.
To try to reduce drag, I ordered a set of delta-shaped vortex generators from Ebay (similar to the ones on the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution) as well as an M3-style lip spoiler, measuring 3/4" high. The vortex generators have shown to keep airflow attached on the rear window and onto the trunk, and I believe a lip spoiler aids in making a clean separation point off of the trunk (if you look at hybrid versions of some cars (like the Honda Civic), they have small lip spoilers not seen on regular gas models). I'll be checking out how those affect fuel mileage later on. I'll probably go through another tank of gas before I get them so I can see if the O2 sensor was killing my mileage.
I'm also looking at installing a diffuser in the rear to clean up airflow under the car. If you look under the trunk, it's not smooth at all. In fact, there's large areas for air to tumble around. I'm thinking if I can smooth that out with a pan and seal off the rear wheelwells, I can add a couple of MPGs on the highway. I'm looking into air dam material as well, since that's also a proven drag and lift reducer.
I also ordered one of the mufflers that PWE listed (the smaller, 272 cfm model), so we'll see if reduced backpressure will increase power and economy. And, if we find enough people, I'm already in on the group purchase for the 1.72 rocker arms.
I'll also be getting an allignment done soon, since it probably needs one. It has a slight pull to the right.
For my driving, I'm already being a balloon foot as well as short shifting, and the numbers are still coming back as average, so either there's something mechanically wrong to fix that's killing mileage or for some reason the 2.3l I4 loves gas. Or it could be the fact that all gas in Oregon has 10% ethanol...
Either way, my target is to get Stickers to run at around 30 MPG by reducing drag (as well as lift) and increasing power.
Also... I could swear I have a 12 gallon tank. I was just above E last week, and it only took 11.something gallons to fill it. If it really is 15.9, my gauge is WAY off. |
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My 1991 Tempo GL, 2.3 HSC, 3-speed auto, "Stickers"
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camaross2k
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Post subject: RE: Rolling project- Building performance AND economy.
Posted: Oct 25, 2009 - 10:37 AM
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Posting Freak
Joined: Oct 27, 2002
Posts: 871
Location: Yardville, NJ
Status: Offline
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| i would've figured a full out tune up would get you to 30mpg highway... those diffusers probably only help at high speeds.. but don't quote me on that... I believe it's a 15.9 gal tank only because I would get 400 miles to the tank with my V6 Topaz... so the average was 25mpg high/city mixed... and i was not nice when driving... but i think it's 15 gal. even..which is 27mpg avg... oddly enough, that's exactly what I get with my car now...and was with the auto focus i had.... the manual focus, drivin' hard all the time, was 30-35mpg lol |
_________________
"I'm an one-winged angel... living a sweet nightmare, or is it a bitter dream?"
'09 Cobalt SS Turbo(245whp/252wlb.ft)... but i still love my lost Topaz
www.myspace.com/silfocus84
www.cardomain.com/id/camaross2k
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Hermie
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Post subject: RE: Rolling project- Building performance AND economy.
Posted: Oct 25, 2009 - 09:31 PM
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Active Member
Joined: Jul 11, 2009
Posts: 477
Location: Lebanon, OR
Status: Offline
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I think I found out why the gas needle seemed to move slower when I had my bike in the trunk..
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/sedan-drag-reduction-special-spoiler-10478.html
If this is right, I raised the "effective angle of slope, measured from the rear of the roof to the rear of the trunk" by having it slightly open with my bike proping it open.
I'm going to be trying the "coastdown" tests to see if it affects drags. It sounds quite logical- When you lift off the gas at a certain speed, the faster you slow down, the more drag you have. I think I'll measure the time it takes to drop from 50 to 40 with and without the bike in the trunk and see if it really does reduce drag. If so, I'm taking my bike to school every day, even though I finally got a campus parking permit.
Also, the engine was pretty much torn down and rebuilt before I started driving it because it had been sitting for 5 years. At least I think it was.. I'll probably take a look at things like the spark plugs soon. I still need to poke around and find those vaccum lines.. |
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My 1991 Tempo GL, 2.3 HSC, 3-speed auto, "Stickers"
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PerformanceWithEconomy
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Post subject: RE: Rolling project- Building performance AND economy.
Posted: Oct 26, 2009 - 05:07 AM
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Posting Freak
Joined: Dec 23, 2007
Posts: 875
Location: Chicago
Status: Offline
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Aerodynamics and drag are of minimal concern when doing stop and go driving at low speeds. They really only come into major play until higher speeds and / or extended periods of steady state driving. Besides that, the turbulence from an open trunk with a bike hanging out of it will in no way benefit your mileage. On top of that, you've added more mass to the vehicle. It is a lose - lose situation in terms of economic efficiency. Don't bother testing that theory and move onto something that will be more productive. If you really want to take your bike to school, do it by setting your arse on the seat and start pedaling!!! Your fuel mileage and health will both respond in a positive fashion!!!
Work on making the motor ( and all of the systems tied to it ) more efficient, cutting weight from the vehicle and reducing rolling resistance ( bearings, tire pressure, alignment, etc... ). While doing all of that, start paying attention to your driving habits in terms of how hard you accelerate, how often you can coast when you haven't been and try not to use your brakes. The more braking that you do, the more you have to accelerate to come back up to speed. It is better to coast for a further distance than to have to brake and then accelerate.
By reading stop lights, watching traffic flow and planning ahead for stop signs, it is possible to cut WAY down on how much your foot is on either the brake or gas pedal. I know all of this stuff, but that big foot of mine seems to want to squash the gas pedal far too hard and far to often!!! Teach yourself to drive more economically when you're younger and you'll save yourself many thousands of dollars in fuel and maintenance costs over your lifetime. Probably avoid a few accidents too  Sean
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92 White / Red 2.3 MTX 130K miles, 93 Cayman Green / Grey 2.3 MTX 140K miles, 94 White / Grey 2.3 MTX 196K miles, 94 Red / Grey 2.3 ATX 70K miles, SouthSide Chicago
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amc49
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Post subject: RE: Rolling project- Building performance AND economy.
Posted: Oct 26, 2009 - 05:50 AM
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Member
Joined: Aug 07, 2009
Posts: 207
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There may be no problem with the front end. If road crowned enough will do that with your front straight, that's considered normal. I usually try several sections of highway before I decide the small amount I will let it drift to the right. On some sections the drift will disappear, depending on crown amount. If you feel that you are positively holding wheel straight while fighting against the caster lock, you can go up under the rack and slightly adjust the outer tie rods to one side or other to neutral that pull out to nothing. To correct drift to right you shorten driver tie and lengthen passenger to move both wheels slightly to the left. Move them both exactly the same amount to preserve the toe setting. I use like 1/3 turn at a time. Look at your threads before starting, they may be backward of each other. Gotta be sure which way you are moving the part. Whole idea to get both car tracking and steering dead straight under most circumstances. Closer you get the wheel direction to the actual caster lock, less effort to hold wheel straight. Caster lock position is where steering wheel will naturally gravitate to and stay when driving on a smooth level surface say in ballpark or parking lot. That is the point where both sides of front end (knuckles) have reached their fully back positions and are limited by the link joining them together. Push a grocery shopping cart and view action of front wheels as you first move off from stopped. Same concept.
EGR has vacuum line coming to it from a solenoid valve. That valve pulsed by PCM to modulate the amount of vac to EGR. Another vac line from manifold supplies the vac for solenoid. Depending on year, DPFE sensor will have 1 or 2 pressure (not vacuum) supply lines, if 2 they must not be mixed up. DPFE sensor highly susceptible to the natural water in exhaust (normal product of correct combustion), they very often are EGR fault. DPFE senses the pressure drop across exhaust as it begins to leak into intake at EGR opening, the resultant signal tells PCM whether to open more by pulsing solenoid or back off. |
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Hermie
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Post subject: RE: Rolling project- Building performance AND economy.
Posted: Oct 26, 2009 - 03:52 PM
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Active Member
Joined: Jul 11, 2009
Posts: 477
Location: Lebanon, OR
Status: Offline
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Sean- 36 of the 40 miles I drive daily are highway at steady speeds. Plus, 20 miles each way is a LONG way to ride a bike.. XD
Plus I accelerate slowly, short shift, coast towards a red light/stop sign, don't bother with the brakes around an s-curve near my place (25 MPH speed limit, and I can take it at that speed without strain). I've become a balloon foot! ^^; Though I wouldn't be wasting any time testing that. I'd already be on a long, flat straight stretch of highway heading to and from school. I also have the tire pressure up to 40 PSI on all tires. I'm also thinking about pulling out the spare tire, but I almost want to leave that in.
amc: It's needed a 4 wheel allignment since I got it, actually. It's been consistently drifting towards the right on several roads. Also, thanks for the info. |
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My 1991 Tempo GL, 2.3 HSC, 3-speed auto, "Stickers"
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PerformanceWithEconomy
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Post subject: RE: Rolling project- Building performance AND economy.
Posted: Oct 26, 2009 - 04:08 PM
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Posting Freak
Joined: Dec 23, 2007
Posts: 875
Location: Chicago
Status: Offline
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Don't do an alignment until you get your springs and struts completely in order. When you do attempt to do an alignment, be prepared to hear that you need some front end parts i.e. tie rod ends and / or possibly a knuckle.
What are your tires rated at for max pressure? Don't forget that higher tire pressures not only compromise ride quality, but can also drastically alter handling under wet or snowy conditions.
Have you tried Sea-Foaming the vacuum system yet? If you haven't do that just BEFORE your next oil change. Follow the directions. Sean
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92 White / Red 2.3 MTX 130K miles, 93 Cayman Green / Grey 2.3 MTX 140K miles, 94 White / Grey 2.3 MTX 196K miles, 94 Red / Grey 2.3 ATX 70K miles, SouthSide Chicago
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Hermie
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Post subject: RE: Rolling project- Building performance AND economy.
Posted: Oct 26, 2009 - 07:39 PM
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Active Member
Joined: Jul 11, 2009
Posts: 477
Location: Lebanon, OR
Status: Offline
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I actually was going to leave swapping the springs/struts until my next round of financial aid, which will be in January, so I don't run out of money in case I need a new rod/knuckle/whatever, but thanks for the tip.
My tires are rated for 44 PSI max, so I've been keeping them no higher than 40.
And I haven't even found the parts in the vaccum system yet. I still need to get in there and find where they are. amc said where they are in his last post, so I'll start looking there and check the hoses when I get a chance. |
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My 1991 Tempo GL, 2.3 HSC, 3-speed auto, "Stickers"
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Hermie
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Post subject: RE: Rolling project- Building performance AND economy.
Posted: Oct 27, 2009 - 02:53 AM
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Active Member
Joined: Jul 11, 2009
Posts: 477
Location: Lebanon, OR
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My lip spoiler, vortex generators, and muffler have all shipped and should get here sometime next week. I also found some aluminum sheet that'll be more than enough for the diffuser, including sealing it off so it doesn't parachute, for only $14.
I've also decided to try a completely reversable, partial grille block over the top grille. The approximate open space is similar to the 3rd Gen upper grille, and I left the driver's side open so the air intake isn't restricted. From what I've read, a grille block helps air move over the front end smoother and reduces the pressure of air under the hood. Since winter is coming, I don't think I'll have a problem with cooling, but since it's completely reversible, I can take it off. (I actually used wide black Gorilla tape, which is the perfect width and doesn't cover the chrome plating.)
I was looking around for some rubber sheeting for the air dam, but I haven't found any yet. I was also thinking about checking out the junkyard for the air dam from an older Chevy S10 pickup and see if it'll work. If I do find some rubber sheeting, I'll probably use them for some side skirts as well. I also still need to get the front tire spat... Maybe I'll find a pair from a wrecked Subaru Forester. |
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My 1991 Tempo GL, 2.3 HSC, 3-speed auto, "Stickers"
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PerformanceWithEconomy
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Post subject: RE: Rolling project- Building performance AND economy.
Posted: Oct 27, 2009 - 03:13 AM
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Posting Freak
Joined: Dec 23, 2007
Posts: 875
Location: Chicago
Status: Offline
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Sounds like a recipe for a mish-mashed disaster that might introduce more drag and problems than what you started with.
As previously stated, the drag coefficient on these cars is pretty reasonable to start with. This is NOT to say that it can't be lowered or improved upon, but that it will take some carefully implemented devices to do so. Without the proper tools to actually check your work, you could be spinning your wheels and going nowhere. Literally, in terms of gas mileage and drag. Sean
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http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m38.l1313&_nkw=magnehelic+gauge&_sacat=See-All-Categories |
_________________
92 White / Red 2.3 MTX 130K miles, 93 Cayman Green / Grey 2.3 MTX 140K miles, 94 White / Grey 2.3 MTX 196K miles, 94 Red / Grey 2.3 ATX 70K miles, SouthSide Chicago
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amc49
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Post subject:
Posted: Oct 27, 2009 - 06:09 AM
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Member
Joined: Aug 07, 2009
Posts: 207
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Be aware that simple tire wear alone can make car pull to one side. My '94 did it twice, got real flaky last 3-6 months, change tires and everything hunky-dory again. Tempo can adjust rear toe and if they know what they are doing can also adjust to square in with front. Change the non adjustable bottom links with adjustable ones from a scrapyard car and you can do rear camber too. Rear camber always a problem on high mileage Tempo because worn bushings allow rear tires to sag bottom out.
Can't imagine what someone would 'seafoam a vacuum system' for, but if you wanna, go for it. I don't hold with about 95% of the 'maintenance' chemicals out there, most just take your money. Some of the claims are incredible. I have never seen the need to use FI system cleaners or oil additives in all the years I've driven. Say vac system, if trouble I test until find the faulty hose/part, fix, be done with it and move on. Same with old carbs, clean 'em once and drive the crap out of it. Most of those chemicals born from someone's need to fix something without a speck of knowledge about how it works, they just want to pour something in and problem cured. Life generally not nearly so simple as that. Not that some of those things wouldn't work, I just don't have the need. |
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jtzins
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Post subject:
Posted: Oct 27, 2009 - 06:30 AM
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Posting Freak
Joined: Oct 23, 2003
Posts: 1057
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Last edited by jtzins on Oct 28, 2009 - 12:50 AM; edited 2 times in total
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Hermie
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Post subject:
Posted: Oct 27, 2009 - 01:51 PM
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Active Member
Joined: Jul 11, 2009
Posts: 477
Location: Lebanon, OR
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amc: It's been pulling to the right since I got it, even after 4 new tires, so I think it's safe to count out tire wear.
PWE: I'm researching, checking, and validating EVERYTHING before I even get the materials. At this point, things are either theory or hypothesis (diffuser and air dam are in the hypothesis stage). I'm not even buying the materials until I can visualize a design that's been tested and proven. I'm looking at multiple designs for the belly pan, since the rear suspension, exhaust, and fuel tank all need to be taken into account.
So far, the only concrete things are the muffler which was information I got from you, research and data of vortex generators (data from "tuft testing" on the EcoModder's forum and wind-tunnel testing and pressure data from Mitsubishi), and research into airflow separation with the lip spoiler (hybrid models of cars usually come with a lip spoiler not available on the gas model, and I've read it helps reduce the "vaccum effect"). In an issue of Car and Driver they also modified a Pinto for better gas mileage. An air dam and grille block were two things that helped with the front end, so I'm testing the grille block alone to see if that has an effect, and will also keep a close eye on the temp gauge.
So don't worry, I'm checking and rechecking everything so I don't end up making things worse, but I appreciate the warning. Also the magnehelic gauge could come in handy for a ram air intake position, if I ever get inclined to do that. |
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My 1991 Tempo GL, 2.3 HSC, 3-speed auto, "Stickers"
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Big Daddy D.
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Post subject:
Posted: Oct 27, 2009 - 05:44 PM
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Webmaster
Joined: Aug 30, 2001
Posts: 2186
Location: Brantford Ontario
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Ah... have you tried doing the simple things like applying "RainX" to your windshield or even waxing your car (making it slippery)?
I have been following your post thread here with interest... seems to me that you continue to add weight to your car ,with all of these additional add ons. Hopfully you on going engine "tuning" will help balance out things somewhat.
Some of your "air effects" mods may only come into play at higher speeds, so codo's for trying out something. |
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Hermie
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Post subject:
Posted: Oct 27, 2009 - 07:29 PM
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Active Member
Joined: Jul 11, 2009
Posts: 477
Location: Lebanon, OR
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I do wax my car, but it's more to protect the paint than anything. Several tests have shown there's no measurable difference in drag between a dirty and clean car, so that's really just cosmetic.
The vortex generators and lip spoiler are all plastic, so it'll be less than a pound in weight added. I'm also focusing on highway speed drag reductions, because 90% of my daily commute is highway.
Also, went to get the allignment done today. I do need a new tie rod. The right rod is loose, so there's some nasty toe there that's pulling me to the right. That's probably one of the biggest killers of my mileage right now. I'll be getting that replaced on Thrusday. The left side is just a little wiggly, but not enough to be an immediate problem. I'll take care of that when I get my next round of financial aid in January.
Oh, and one of the guys at the shop has an '89 Tempo GL. We started chatting about T/Ts and I told him about the Club. Also, after I told him I'm swapping mufflers, he asked if he could get mine from me after I pull it off. |
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My 1991 Tempo GL, 2.3 HSC, 3-speed auto, "Stickers"
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