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Category: Body & Interior

The news items published under this category are as follows.
Body & Interior: electronic seatbelt fix
Posted by: caraudioeffects on Sunday, December 09, 2007 - 03:00 PM
Tempo / Topaz I work at a Toyota/Ford dealership at the parts counter. I have to fix my drivers seatbelt once a year. It seems to me that they're 3 common parts that go wrong. The plastic gear in the seatbelt motor, the black track belt and the white C-shape plastic runner attached to the seatbelt motor with 2 screws. Most parts for my COUPE tempo auto seatbelts are discontinued. The only thing I can still is the black track belt for about $48. So what I have done is go junk yard haunting. 4 door and 2 door model use different automatic seatbelt parts. Which stinks because 4 doors seem to last longer. Go to the junk yard and find the lowest mileage compatible tempo/topaz. 2 door or 4 door. Why the lowest? In theory, the Driver side is used the most and the passenger about less than half of that. Start disassembling the PASSENGER side seatbelt Mech under the rear quarter glass. Once you remove the interior plastic trim, you should be able to see the seatbelt motor. Remove the motor, then the 3 Philips screws holding the metal plate on. You now have the 3 inch white gear exposed. That gear will slide right of the shaft and out of the motor. Hopefully you have a plastic bag to put that gear in or else it will make a mess. Now disassemble the seatbelt track. Once fully disassembled, pull the black track belt all the way out. Make sure it's in good shape by looking at the groove section. It should not be cracked or broken. Before you get started on reassembling your car. Go to your local parts store and get a gel type lubricate like 'EASYGLIDE'. You will need to lube your track and motor gears. When you get home, disassemble you Drivers side seatbelt mech. Just like you did on the passenger side in the junk yard. This time don't break anything!!! This is your car. Both parts you got from the Junk yard car will work on your drivers

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Body & Interior: New clear turn signal lenses for 90-94 TT's!
Posted by: techie007 on Friday, August 18, 2006 - 09:44 AM
Modifications Well it took some sluthing, some luck, and based on the name Chrome Rush mostly remebered I managed to find the web page!!!

Order your front clear corners for your 1990-94 TT HERE: http://www.mirsa-mx.com/

(Read extended text for part numbers an such).

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Body & Interior: escort gt wing install on 93 topaz
Posted by: al on Tuesday, September 21, 2004 - 07:27 PM
Modifications i put a wing off a 1988 escort gt on my 93 topaz it was easy i took some cardborad and put it on the back of the escort after i took the wing off and marked 6 of the 8 holes because the 2 top end holes you dont use so before you install the wing take off the screws on top ends then put your cardborad down and drill your holes and put the wing on

p.s.it looks good with my shaved decklid

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Body & Interior: Installation of lightbar into pre GenIII
Posted by: JBC1701 on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 02:08 AM
Modifications It's possible to install a functioning lightbar into a pre92 Topaz.
Remove old grill. Take a dremel tool and shave the front bumps in the side posts beside the headlights.
Flip the lightbar upside down and shave off the extensions under the top lip. Take a 3/4" spade bit and drill 2 holes into the back of the lightbar and install two signal light sockets. Wire the sockets to the low beam (red/black wire) from the back of the headlight socket.
Center the lightbar over the hole. Drill 2 holes on the top of the supports and install 2 #10 self threading screws.
Voila! A functioning lightbar. I used two blue lights in the signal sockets. Looks pretty cool at night!
Whole mod took about an hour. Enjoy!



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Body & Interior: Ground Effects from Honda Accord
Posted by: LoneBlade on Friday, May 21, 2004 - 03:38 AM
Modifications For those of you who either cannot afford or do not like the look of aeroform.com's ground effects kit for the tempo/topaz, here is a simple, stylish, and, perhaps, less expensive alternative:
I was bored with the stock body style of my Topaz (heaven forbid!). I was also quite short on funds. Then I began thinking about what I could do and it occurred to me that the early model honda accords (late '80's/early 90's) shares a very similar shape with nearly all models of FoMoCo's most underrated car, none other than the Tempo and the Topaz!
So far, I only have the front air dam installed. I was able to find aftermarket ground effects on a bashed-up 1990 accord in a junkyard. Unfortunately, the back of the accord was totally crunched and the side-skirts were non-existent. Total price for awesome ground effects so far: 50$.
A small amount of cutting and bending is required and I had to cut the slotted part off of my Topaz's front bumper, but with some blue paint, some bolts, and a small amount of fiberglass filler (to make the seams cleaner), I now have an excellent looking front air dam. It looks like it was meant to be on there. I just wish I could find a way to lower my car the right way...

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Body & Interior: Mesh Grill
Posted by: pimp'nTempalla on Monday, October 13, 2003 - 04:01 AM
Modifications I did a really good looking mesh grill i cut out the whole center of my grill the unbolted the chrome piece at the top then put mesh on its very easy then i bolted the chrome piece back on over the mesh

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Body & Interior: Headlight refinishing!
Posted by: buddy42986 on Wednesday, April 16, 2003 - 07:55 AM
Modifications You know the problem: those headlights are yellow, making it hard to see anything at night. The problem is that the lenses get oxidized, much like neglected paint. The rest of the headlight assembly is usually fine. You should check for large cracks in the light, and if it looks bad, odds are there is a good one in a junkyard ($10-40) if needed.

So how do I remove the oxidation?
Headlight refinishing! This takes 20-30 minutes per light, with very little elbow grease. Yes, it will look brand new when done with care and attention to detail. Get the list of things given here, though I bet you have some of this in your garage.


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Body & Interior: Air Vent and Interior Light Colors
Posted by: AaronsTempoMOD on Friday, March 28, 2003 - 09:34 PM
Modifications Well, it is quite easy. I just took off the air vents and the interior lights and spray painted them a crystal white. When the sun hits the paint, it sparkles. SOO NICE!!!

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Body & Interior: Blackout treatment and tail light upgrade
Posted by: montreal on Monday, January 27, 2003 - 06:50 AM
Modifications To give your Tempo or Topaz a cleaner appearance or even immitate the second generation GLS/LTS look you can quickly and easily give it the blackout treatment. It's also good for covering up pitted or damaged fake chrome and scuffed strips in the side mouldings or bumpers.

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Body & Interior: Escort LX wing on 91 Topaz GS
Posted by: 91Topaz805 on Wednesday, December 04, 2002 - 09:46 PM
Modifications I have a 1991 Topaz GS. It came with a stock luggage rack, ||I thought it looked all right, but it needed more, I was doing one of my junk yard search and i found a 1993 Escort LX with a stock wing, I thought it would look all right on the Topaz, And I was right, The only difference is the Wing had another 3rd brake light witch was no problem to wire up, then I removed the stock Topaz light from the back window, The wing isnt anything major, but it adds some effect.....

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Body & Interior: Sport Cluster Installation
Posted by: Dewie on Tuesday, November 26, 2002 - 02:19 AM
Modifications This project took about a 2 hours to do excluding the time it took me to walk back to my parts car and hack out the 2 plugs for the Cluster. I then removed all the "pins" from the two sports cluster plugs and chucked the wires in the Trash. (Hold on to the plain black one – it is used later) I then went through the diagrams that Brian Scanned for me (Links Below) and removed each wire from the standard cluster plug that was in my car one by one and installed these wires in the corresponding new plugs. This step took the most the time.

The Sports Cluster Requires 2 ground leads while the standard cluster only requires one. Ford just ran a jumper wire from where one wire goes into the plug, to another place on that plug. In order to make use of this jumpered wire I just cut the metal piece off the ground wire in my car, and used a crimp connector to join the two wires.

I then took another piece of the old harness with a plug on it and soldered on a Piece of wire that was long enough to reach from the cluster to the tach wire for my remote car starter (If you do not have a remote car started installed you will have to run a wire all the way to the negative pole of your distributor). I soldered these 2 splices in the wires and covered one with shrink tubing and the other with liquid electrical tape and ordinary electrical tape over that.

If any of you have any Questions about the swap feel free to ask, I am around the forum often. This was a MUCH MUCH easier swap that I had anticipated

Here are the links to the wiring diagrams required to do this swap:

Sports Cluster Diagram
Standard Cluster Diagram

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Body & Interior: Installing a simple gauge cluster
Posted by: topaz_pimpin on Thursday, November 07, 2002 - 10:12 PM
Modifications Ok, so I installed a simple gauge cluster in my car. The instructions provided should be plenty, but if you are still unsure, I have pretty pictures to help when words hurt your brain. Check out my web site for the pictures, and ask me if you need more help. To install, (by the way this cluster has oil pressure, engine coolant temperature, and voltage) first find a location for the gauges. Screw them in, bolt em down, whatever. Then run the wires through the firewall, you should have one empty if you haven't already used it. The oil pressure line screws into a port just above the oil filter. (oh, this is on a 94 topaz, other years may be different) The port will have a little cover on it, just take that off, its not used as far as I can tell. The engine coolant temperature is different. There is already a sensor there, and the car needs it. So you'll need a t-fitting which will go into the sensor port. The existing sensor and the new sensor will go into the t-fitting. If you decide not to buy a t-fitting, and just blow off the old sensor, you will have problems, so don't do it. Remember to use teflon tape on all the connections, and make sure they're tight. You don't want any leaks. When removing the engine coolant temperature, be careful about the antifreeze that will spill out a bit. Please be sure to clean it up too, my cat died a few years back because my neighbor left an antifreeze spill in his driveway. My cat drank some and suffered a kidney failure, thus killing her. It is a sweet smelling and tasting fluid, and animals often make the mistake of drinking it. Little kids too! Anyway, the instruction recommend having a pro do the voltage so I haven't done it yet, sorry. I f you have any questions, please ask, and remember to visit my web site at http://users.adelphia.net/~hagakure962 to find the pictures. Thanks for reading and remember to keep your car in shape!

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Body & Interior: GLS / XR5 / LTS Fog Light rewire
Posted by: XR5TopazBri on Tuesday, October 08, 2002 - 04:29 PM
Modifications

There are probably several different ways to accomplish this modification, but this is how I performed it. I removed the center console as well as the driver's seat. This gave me access to the fog lamp switch and underneath the carpet (to run wiring).



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Body & Interior: Turbo Coupe Front Seat installation
Posted by: XR5TopazBri on Tuesday, October 08, 2002 - 04:28 PM
Modifications


<IMG src="thumbs/brianseats1.jpg" border=0>
<IMG src="thumbs/brianseats2.jpg" border=0>
<IMG src="thumbs/brianseats3.jpg" border=0>


I decided I wanted to replace the stock GS front buckets in my Topaz with something more sporty.  Originally, I wanted to replace them with XR5 or GLS seats.  Well, those were somewhat hard to come by in the junkyards, but I found a suitable replacement.  I went with a set of 1988 Ford Thunderbird TurboCoupe front bucket seats.  Here's what I did:


  • When I pulled the seats from the junked car, I took the seats and the entire seat track assembly for each seat. After the seats were removed, I pulled up the carpet and took every bit of wiring harness that I could relating to the powerseats. If you are gonna do this, you will have to pull the center console.. the wiring harness runs right underneath it.
  • I wanted to try and use the full power driver's seat function. To do so would require using the seat track assembly from the TC seats. The floor pan of the Topaz has a different shape than that of the Topaz. Conceivably I could have used the tracks from the TC, but taht would have required bending the metal tracks to the shape of the Topaz floor and drilling new mounting holes... too much work just to get the power seat to work.
  • Step 1: First, remove the trim pieces that cover the seat hold down nuts and bolts. There are 3 covers head on by 4 phillips head screws to remove. The right rear and right front are seperate pieces, and the left side is one piece. Be careful when removing this piece, you need to rotate it and remove it from near the middle of the seat, between the seat and the door.
  • Step 2: Remove the seat belt retainer clip. This is a small slender piece of plastic that keeps your lap belt up with the seat and you front hunting around for it. It is held on with 2 phillips head screws.
  • Step 3: Remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the seat in place. These require a 13mm socket/wrench. After removing these, the seat will lift right out of the car.
  • Step4: Remove the tracks from the original seats. There are four bolts that hold them to the seat. Using the adjusting lever, slide both tracks all the way to the front or the rear to expose one set (front or rear) bolts. Remove them using a 10 mm socket. Next, using the adjusting leverl, slide both tracks the opposite direction to expose the remaining two bolts. Remove them using a 10 mm socket. Remove the tracks from the seats. The small spring loaded wire that locks the seats in place will probably come loose. Not to worry, as long as the tracks stay in their currently locked position, it is fine.
  • Step 5: Line up the tracks on the new seats. Secure with 2 of the bolts removed in step 4. Hook up the spring loaded wire to the release lever and mechanism. Use the lever and slide the seats to the opposite direction. Secure with the remaining 2 bolts from step 4.
  • Step 6: In the carpet there will be a split directly under the seat. Pull this up a little bit and put your hand in under the carpet and find the plug for the power lumbar. My car was pre-wired for this option, and I believe that all Tempos and Topazes were. My plugs were found toward the doors of the car on each side. Pull out enough wire from the harness through the slit to give you about 6-8" to work with.
  • Step 7: Alot of the wiring harness I removed was for the power seat function. After unraveling the harness from the electrical tape (used to keep the wires neat), the power lumbar portion of the harness actually seperated from the harness that went to the power seats. What I did was clip the plugs off of their wires.
  • Step 8: I clipped the plug off of the Topaz harness and spliced in the plug from the TC wiring harness. This enables me to plug the seat into the wiring harness instead of hard wiring the seat to the harness. Makes them easier to remove if they need to be removed.
  • Step 9: Place the seat back into the car. Bolt the car back in with the nuts and bolts removed in step 3. Re-thread the lap belt through the side clip (added benefit of using the Topaz seat tracks) and reattatch the retaining plastic piece. Reattatch the trim pieces with the phillips head screws.
  • Step 10: Repeat these steps for the passenger seat.
  • Step 11: Reach up under each seat and plug the seats into the wiring harness.
  • Step 12: If your car currently has powerseats or the power lumbar, you can skip this step. Go to the fuse panel under the dashboard. Slot ?? should be empty. Place a 20A blade fuse in there.


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Body & Interior: 3-piece spoiler installation
Posted by: XR5TopazBri on Tuesday, October 08, 2002 - 04:28 PM
Modifications

My 93 Topaz GS 2-door came with the trunk mounted luggage rack.  After several years, I wanted to replace it with the 3-piece rear spoiler that came on the 1988-1991 Tempo GLS and Topaz XR5.  Guillermo found me a spoiler in a junkyard and sent it to me.



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